One winter night, in 2010, I landed
at the T3 terminus of Delhi airport.
It was extremely cold; I needed a
couple of pullover to keep myself warm and comfortable. Having missed out on
few opportunities before, I really wanted to make this trip count.
My flight was delayed by 4 hours from
Pune; it was almost 2 a.m. when I reached my friend’s place at Dwarka, New
Delhi. Soon after that I searched online for different tour operators at
Rishikesh, Corbett, Manali and few other destinations as well. Nothing seems
working in the late night! It’s been a long tiring day, so to hit the bed…
Next morning woke up to the alarms
ringing in my mind…. “Where to go ? What to do ?”
Immediately I contacted Junglelore,
Mumbai and thanks to them within the next 2 hours our bookings were done. Only
thing which was hovering around was “How to reach Ranthambore ?” Easiest way
was to travel by train but you must be a very luck chap in India to get a train
ticket for the same night. We knew it is going to be a Marathon night to reach
Ranthambore; we decided to take a bus from Delhi-Jaipur and it was 2am again!!
But, this time in Jaipur ! Managed our train tickets in the middle of the night
from Jaipur-Sawai Madapur (Ranthambore). Now, we were rest assured to reach
Ranthambore in the next couple of hours.
Finally in Ranthambore.
It was early morning 5.30 a.m. We were literally freezing while on an open
Gypsy while going to the resort. People who had been to Rajasthan during peak
winter will know the weather far better; Checked into the hotel and during
winter mornings safari starts little late around 7am, so that gave us enough
time to refresh ourselves and head for our first experience in the wild.
Ranthambore
National Park has got five zones and
adjoining Sawaimansingh park has zones 6, 7 & 8. Sawaimansingh and Qualiji
remains open for the tourist throughout the year but Ranthambore zones are
closed during monsoon (July to September). Ranthambore got its importance not
only because of tigers but also from the fort. Ranthambore fort is considered
one of the oldest forts in Rajasthan built 1000 years ago. There is also a
Ganeshji’s Mandir, thousands of pilgrims visit it every year. Don’t be
surprised if a tiger comes to see you in the fort.
Now, we were heading towards Zone 3
which has the world-famous Rajbah Lake. This was previously a hunting ground
for the Royal Maharajas of Jaipur. Our morning safari was with Raeez
Bhai, one of the most passionate and knowledgeable drivers in Ranthambore.
Even before we entered the jungle Raeez bhai’s information on forest and birds
made things very interesting.
We were close to Padam Lake in Zone
3, when a Sambar deer gave an alarm call sensing a predator. But soon the alarm
calls disappeared and no signs of the big cats yet. As usual Raeez Bhai was
doing his best to show us the tiger. More than couple of hours into the safari,
we were returning to Rajbah after a brief visit to Mandook area without any
luck. Though, we didn’t see a tiger his stories and knowledge on the jungle
made us more than happy.
Just before Rajbah there were
vehicles queuing up. Alarm calls again, though this time it was a continuous
call. We were in all hopes that a tiger sighting is for sure. Suddenly the
shutterbugs were on full force and yes it was the beautiful Stara (T-
17), one of the most dominant tigers in the park. She was walking from quite a
distance and slowly came towards us. She happens to be the Queen of Rajbah
Lake. This particular territory is considered one of the best tiger habitats in
the world. Because the lake has water throughout the year and prey base is also
extremely good.
It’s always special to see your first
tiger in the wild that too at Rajbah. T-17 took over this territory from her
mother the world-famous tigress Machili (T-16). Not
long ago Machili, popularly known as “Lady of the lakes” was awarded with the Lifetime
Achievement Award. She is one of the most photographed tigers in the world
and has given 9 tigers to Ranthambore. T-17 was one the three cubs from the
last litter of Machili.
Evening safari was even more special,
when we saw Tigress(T-19) sister of T-17 chasing a wild boar
in the Zone II near Nalgati area. Though a tiger takes several attempts before
making a successful kill, we all wished she could get him. It was unfortunate
for the tiger but fortunate for the piglet that she wasn’t able to cling on to
him. One should be lucky to see a tiger in the wild but to see a live kill you
must be extremely lucky. This particular incident turned me from a regular
tourist to a wildlife enthusiast.
Then on, I have visited Ranthambore
and various other National Parks and Wildlife Sanctuaries across India on
several occasions. Each time I have seen something different and interesting
but more importantly I got to learn a lot about the jungle and wildlife from
the experts of those areas.
A piece of advice to people who plan
their vacations in any wildlife or jungle related places, is not to disturb the
jungle by any means. Never litter and tease or feed wild animals. This might
create unnecessary trouble for you and also for the wildlife.
One happy news before I end,
the Tigresses I saw during my first visit to the park have given birth to cubs.
T19 gave birth to 3 cubs last year and T17 was sighted with 3 cubs this year on
the penultimate day before the closure of the park due to monsoons. I was fortunate
to see the cubs of T19 last month and hoping to see T17’s cubs post monsoon.